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gonesailing's Blog

Member For: 1 year, 9 months
Posts: 25
Top Post By gonesailing (2 thumbs up):

hi sparrowhawk

I decided to get rid of the backstay stainless wire yoke after it cut my hand the second time. Like you I think the block is too small and causes the strands to fracture. Used 4mm Dyneema (measured just now, but suggest you take the block into the chandlery to check it fits yours) that has now been on for 3 years with no evidence of wear. To secure the Dyneema I wound it twice around the fittings and tied it off with a bowline, covering the bowline with plastic electrical insulating tape. Think this solution cost less than replacing the stainless wire. I used my original block as it was in good condition.

- from the topic: Backstay wear

Recent Posts by gonesailing:

Re: water seepage into bow compartment

October 17, 2009 by gonesailing

hi maxr,

yes i can confirm the way to get water out a hawk is to get the bow lower than the stern.  a friend backed the trailer (with the hawk on) up some inspection ramps and rested the jockey wheel on the ground.  something like 4 gallons came out of a "dry" boat.

mike

Re: water seepage into bow compartment

September 21, 2009 by gonesailing

Hi ramsden,

Yes I can see you have experienced the glue like powers of Sikaflex.  Your point is well made and Sikaflex should carry a health warning as the stick can be so powerful as to take off the odd piece of gel coat and make removal of the covers very difficult.

All the best, Mike

Re: water seepage into bow compartment

June 21, 2009 by gonesailing

When we bought ours there were tide marks in the bow compartment. Salt water was entering the bow compartment by the two small pipes you can see on the bottom either side of the keel.  These pipes go back to the stern and drain any water collecting between the hull and the deck mouldings.  Water gets into the aft either through

1) bad seals around the circular plates (you can see these on the transom inside the engine well -these plates cover the bolts for the pintails and need to be sealed with Sikaflex), or

2) water enters through a bad seal aroound the self bailers.  To redo the seal around the self bailers you need to undo all the securing bolts and pull out the bailers.  When you clean up the edges of the bailer hole you can see how the deck and hull GRP mouldings simply rest against each other and rely on the Sikaflex mastic to provide the seal.  Give a liberal covering of Sikaflex 221 and be prepared to check the seal every couple of years.

Hope that helps you fix the condensation. 

PS  If you have transducer holes cut in the hull for log, depth etc.  check those first

Re: navigation lights

April 4, 2009 by gonesailing

hi suzie,

sure you are right that 5hp Honda does not have a charging circuit, so LEDs are a good way to reduce electric consumption. Personally I would go for masthead lights as I would not want the clutter of lights on an already small deck area, added to which the height will reduce the chance of the lights being obscured when you are in waves. The only downside of masthead is trying to fit on the wind indicator above the lights as you will want both to have an all round view.  Whatever lights you chose I would suggest there is no substitute for a good torch to shine on the sails when someone is getting close.  That is much more visible than these small nav lights and will help avoid being run over.

enjoy your adventures . . .

Re: Rig tension

February 23, 2009 by gonesailing

I once asked Reid's about setting shroud tension and the comment was that experience allowed it to be set by "feel", so no figures.  For me, the most useful rig setting up description was the book on sail trimming (see the topic in the forum about sailing in light winds) which explained that if your leeward shrouds go slack on a beat, then the tension is not high enough, so since then I have been setting the tension to avoid slackness in a F5/6.  
The backstay is really to de-power/ change the shape of the main in strong winds, so at rest the backstay is quite loose.  The forestay should go slack when the jib halyard is tightened so then you know the jib luff is as straight as it can be, and you might slacken the backstay further to make sure it not preventing the jib luff from truly tightening.
Returning to the shrouds, both lower and cap shrouds should be adjusted in unison so the mast is vertical and straight - no "S" bends or banana shapes when viewed from fore/ aft. Then tighten/loosen both cap shrouds together to get some aft pre-bend in the mast, necessary for the main to set nicely. It's important to have enough tension in the cap shrouds to stop the mast going "inverted", i.e. forward bend. Somewhere in there is setting the forestay so the rake looks correct, so you are right that there is not a specific tension other than the forestay should not be so tight that it cannot become loose when the jib luff is fully tightened. Then tighten/ loosen both lowers so they don't flop around on a beat in a F5/6, would be my suggested sequence, although others will doubtless have their own methods. 
PS I believe it is normal for the top of the mast to flop slightly to leeward in a strong wind.

Hawk 20 for sale

February 12, 2009 by gonesailing

Hawk 20 for sale.  No.72 (?) asking £9750 inc. trailer etc.

On-line advert seen on freeads site.  Link is:

http://marine.uk.freeads.net/sail_boats/trailer_sailers/448000/hawk-20/view

This boat is not related to me, I just saw it on another site and give the link for those interested.

Useful Hawk links

January 24, 2009 by gonesailing

I've put together a downloadable .doc file with links to sites of interest to Hawk sailors.  
If you do not have Microsoft Word to read the file you can download a pretty good free wordprocessor, spreadsheet, etc. from the internet.  I use this on Windows XP, Vista and Mac Leopard:
http://www.openoffice.org/
Please feel free to post any links that you find useful.
Mike

Attachment: useful-hawk-links.doc (59.0KB)

Hawk 20 photo library moving to Picasa

January 17, 2009 by gonesailing

The photo library is gradually moving to Picasa, Google's photo album web site.  This is a free service so forum users could create their own free account, upload their pictures, and share them by posting a link on the forum.

The link to the Hawk 20 album is:

http://picasaweb.google.com/hawk20sailing

WANTED Hawk 20 trailer

January 14, 2009 by gonesailing

Has anyone got a trailer they don't use? Looking for the RM trailer normally supplied with the boat.

If you have, please send me a PM or post contact details so I can get in touch.

Many thanks, Mike

Improve our forum

January 11, 2009 by gonesailing

Happy New Year to everyone.

So how can we improve the forum? Please post your thoughts and ideas on this thread so we can reach an informed view of how we make this a more useful resource. Different articles, better picture libraries, news update from Reid Marine, etc.

The forum is moving toward its first anniversary and has gained 40 members and 100 posts. That's out of a population of about 350 day boats and 50 cabin boats delivered by Reid Marine. So about 1 in 10 Hawk owners are represented on this site. Over 12,000 pages have been served/ viewed since records started in in May-08; I hasten to add that no individual records are kept, only summary statistics. Then, looking at posted topics and activity on the forum, it seems to be predominantly from places where there are individual Hawk sailors, or very small groups. The larger Hawk congregations of Brancaster, Chichester and Christchurch probably network within their own geography.

As an aside its interesting to see where in the world the last 500 pages were viewed from. See attached map.

Look forward to your thoughts, and In the meantime may your annual maintenance progress without too much drudgery, and may we all have gentle seas, blue skies and F4s this sailing season.

Re: Electric Start

January 7, 2009 by gonesailing

Would check things in the fuel line as the spark is ostensibly getting to the plug. I would want to check (1) the fuel filter is clear and then (2) the bowl of the carb does not have any sediment and the jet(s) are clear.

As someone once said to me when looking at a recalcitrant wood chipper . . . "it has to be either the fuel supply or the spark as there is nothing else"

Re: Electric Start

December 12, 2008 by gonesailing

There are several 5hp Honda outboards used at the club and they seem pretty reliable. Certainly two people who I know say they chug away happily and I've seen them start first time. There is one which is a bit of a pig to start but it is new to the owner (or should that be the owner is new to it).

As an aside we had a Yamaha that we had no confidence in, and were on the point of changing it because it didn't start, sometimes cut out, and would easily heat. At my witts end I asked around the club as to who did a good service, took the engine in, and chatted to the engineer. Other than the annual service I ended up asked him to strip and clean the carb and strip and check the cooling water flow. It transpired the carb had dirt in the bowl that was jamming the float (hence unpredictable running), the wrong plug was fitted (maybe contributing to the sooty plug), and there was old weed stuck inside the cooling passages. We now have confidence in the engine and a spare new engine that we haven't yet used !

Suggest you check with Peter Reid @ Reid Marine about what size of engine you can get in as I think some of the later cabin versions have a modified well to accommodate a larger engine, but what size I know not.

Re: Backstay wear

December 5, 2008 by gonesailing

hi sparrowhawk

I decided to get rid of the backstay stainless wire yoke after it cut my hand the second time. Like you I think the block is too small and causes the strands to fracture. Used 4mm Dyneema (measured just now, but suggest you take the block into the chandlery to check it fits yours) that has now been on for 3 years with no evidence of wear. To secure the Dyneema I wound it twice around the fittings and tied it off with a bowline, covering the bowline with plastic electrical insulating tape. Think this solution cost less than replacing the stainless wire. I used my original block as it was in good condition.

Re: Cetntreplate sticking

August 29, 2008 by gonesailing

Discovered a DREMEL with a high speed steel bit was great for taking out the corrosion. It was easy to take out a lot of material very quickly, so careful how you go. I etch primed the blade, holes and all, then used two pack epoxy filler to fill in the gaps. The only section needing rework the following year, was at the tip of the blade where it runs aground.

Please tell people if something is sold

August 14, 2008 by gonesailing

Can you please post a reply on the forum if something you said was available, has now been sold.

Many thanks,

gonesailing

If you Want a Hawk . . . or even Hawk jumble

June 9, 2008 by gonesailing

Suggest you start a new topic and then people can respond directly to you. Anyone can start a new topic, but you get more out of the forum if you register.

Yes, you need give yourself a user name, but the quid pro quo is that someone can send you a Message (when you have registered see top of screen just below your browser bars) and the forum emails you to say you have a message. It is minimal extra work to register.

Also, if you start a new topic, the forum will email you when someone has replied to your topic.

Re: Sailing Hawk in Light Winds

May 15, 2008 by gonesailing

Re: Different trestle designs

May 15, 2008 by gonesailing

Re: Beware Yamaha 4hp four stroke outboard with integral fuel tank

May 15, 2008 by gonesailing

Full article appears on main web site http://www.hawk20.net. Here is a link to take you directly to the original article:-

http://web.mac.com/mikealex/iWeb/hawk20/Snips/171B526E-9260-4767-98BA-D17FAF446701.html

Re: Setting up for racing by Neil Stevenson

May 15, 2008 by gonesailing

The full article appears on http://www.hawk20.net on the Tips page.

The link below will take you directly there:
http://web.mac.com/mikealex/iWeb/hawk20/Tips/82DE1CB0-C35F-4B18-A641-F9CF12DB5871.html

Re: Sailing Hawk in Light Winds

May 10, 2008 by gonesailing

If I could answer those questions I'm sure I would be a rich saint. There are so many interrelated variables I'm still learning and haven't yet found the answers. Apart from trite answers like a clean bottom and not strangling the sails with over tight sheets,halyards and out-haul, I would suggest this book on sail trimming. There are a lot more aerodynamics to sail performance than I originally gave them credit for. The diagrams in this book make it understandable.

Illustrated Sail & Rig Tuning
Ivar Dedekam
Fernhurst Books
ISBN 1 898660 67 0

About GBP14 in paperback

And when you've found the answers, please tell me!

Re: Windows coming loose on Cabin version

April 30, 2008 by gonesailing

Not looked at a "lid" to see the offending join, but my guess is the black mastic is either Sikaflex 221 (a waterproof mastic that seems to stick to anything), or possibly a silicone sealant.  I use Sikaflex to stick and seal the self bailers into the hull, so the stuff is waterproof.  My only comment is the Sikaflex is difficult to finish smoothly, whereas you can get a slicker finish with silicone.  

I would call Peter Reid and ask him what the stuff is, and if he doesn't know, then call CML (Composite Mouldings) who make the hull.  Contact details for both on http://www.hawk20.net  Click on the LIBRARY link and in the text list you will see a link to the LINKS page. 

Re: Pulpit and furler modifications

April 14, 2008 by gonesailing

Hi. Got some info from Nick who wrote the article on the pulpit. The prices are a few years old so you'll need to factor in increased prices for steel and inflation. I will put the two files Nick refers to, in to the REFERENCE section of the Hawk web site. See http://web.mac.com/mikealex/iWeb/hawk20/Reference.html but give me a day or two to update the site.

Hayeswood Technical Services, Dee Way, West Quay Road, Poole, BH15 1LJ, telephone 01202 683883 fabricated and fixed my pulpit in 2004 for GBP £199.75 including VAT.

Attached are two files. The

.tcw file may only be readable if the recipient has a program called Total CAD but the

.xls file is should be readable by all. The fact is though that making a engineering drawing of a pulpit is a nightmare for the amateur as it is in three dimensions with no obviously preferred axes. It is probably easier to give some fabricator a photo and let him measure up the boat himself.

Re: Hawk 20 as a day tripping trailer sailer??

April 3, 2008 by gonesailing

The Hawk is good to launch and recover.  The breakback trailer makes it easy and on our club slipway the metal rims of the trailer tyres are only just touching the water and the Hawk floats free in the shallows.  I don't trailer sail although it was a thought when we bought.  We've kept ours on a mooring as we race most weekends.  Maybe because we only rig the boat once a year it takes a while for us to remember where all the ropes go.  Perhaps if you are doing it on a regular basis you would get slicker.  The Hawk has a relatively high number of control lines, and what takes the time is connecting and checking that you got them right.  If you didn't rig the spinnaker, that saves 7 lines.  The jib uses 4 lines, and the main uses 4 lines. The spinnaker is the one that causes the work.  You would need to thread the main onto the tracks etc., and the jib is very simple.  Raising the mast is straight forward and definitely easier with two people, although I know of some who do it themselves.  The cabin version might provide a valuable shelter for your young ones if the weather kicks up.  I suppose we take 2-3 hours to rig and set the mast rake after its winter lay up as I always seem to have changed something and want to get back to last seasons "proven" tuning.  I've never timed it, but much of that time seems to be spent chatting to other club members.  If you trailer regularly you would not have these distractions or changes to your rig.  Some club members take their Hawk away for a week to Wales or Scotland, so there is clearly no worry of rigging and de-rigging.  To minimise set up and maximise sailing time I would not set the spinnaker and I would be happy to get the mast up and sails on.  I would travel with my shrouds attached to the u-bolts so I did not have to fiddle and tune the shroud lengths. How long would it take, well with these restrictions I guess you could launch and rig in an hour of solid work.

Welcome

February 24, 2008 by gonesailing


Welcome to the Hawk 20 Forum; a place to exchange ideas, questions and suggestions. The original site http://www.hawk20.net is separate because Lefora write a better forum than I could ever, so the original site publishes articles on Maintenance and Tuning, and this forum extracts the first paragraph to seed discussion. Happy posting.

NB: Both http://hawk20.lefora.com and http://www.hawk20.net are independent of the manufacturer, Reid Marine, who have their own site at http://www.hawk20.co.uk